Columbia Road has long been a ‘hit-list’ destination for Londoners and tourists alike with its famous weekend flower market, stylish boutiques and antique dealers. And right in the middle, nestled amongst them, sits Brawn, the epicurean jewel in Columbia Road’s crown, occupying a covetable corner plot. This is a hipster neighbourhood restaurant that pulls in as many pleasure seekers from around the globe, as it does local folk and once you get your feet under one of their skandi tables you’ll understand why.

I look around me and have a sense of being in some uber cool dining club. There’s a subtle industrial edge to the clean décor of white washed brick and window bars and the brushed stainless steel bar looks like an easy place to pitch up if you’re dining solo.

Brawn clearly takes itself seriously, but without any obvious contrivance. A sommelier in jeans described his red wine recommendation as a ‘real juicy lucy’; and a head waiter with a scouse accent who on our departure called out “see ya agen gels”. Now that’s what we like! No pomp and ceremony here, just real people who know their stuff and make you feel warm and welcomed.

While you ponder over their short menu, contemplating ordering the lot, bridge the hunger gap with bread and butter. Beware though, you’ll be hoovering up the crumbs! The first starter of raw scallop with navel orange, celery and capers was divine with a delicate zingy citrus punch, the poached celery shavings subtle but inspired. Crab with calcots and almond was so beautifully balanced, not one ingredient surpassing the other; harmonious to the end, with the freshness of the crab leading the way and the creamy almond sauce nudging you for more bread to complete the obligatory mop up. Both dishes were enhanced by a generous lick of fine, glossy olive oil, understanding its place and never over powering any of the participants.

I scan the menu for the tanned crusty pie I’ve spied going to the next table with a marrowbone protruding like a trumpet, only to be told, it’s ‘off menu’. I told you this was more like a discerning diners club, didn’t I? Hake with white beans and winter tomatoes was given the perfect elevation in the form of fresh clams, sweet and plump. Lamb neck was tender and succulent with fava beans and bitter greens, jollied up with harissa and yoghurt. It’s utterly blissful from start to finish with layer upon layer of textures and flavours unfolding, marrying, blending and dancing with every mouthful.

The finale of dark chocolate ganache with sea salt and yes, you guessed it, olive oil, left me sighing contentedly. Actually, the silky Sicilian olive oil deserved this encore. It featured on every dish we had, just gently enhancing the proceedings and demonstrating superb versatility, when used in the right hands of course. I remember years back when someone suggested strawberries and balsamic, we shifted uncomfortably in our seats. Olive oil and chocolate? Yes Brawn, you have our attention, bring it on.

© Isobel Cripps