The Look

A pebble’s throw from the shingle shore. The sea, and the light from it, informs the interior and gives a sense of fresh, coastal relaxation. Tasteful, soft blues and whites, punctuated with elegant stripey cushions, contrasted with kitsch chequered vinyl floor tiles –seaside retro chic I think you’d call this. Everything’s bright and easy, it feels welcoming and good with the Japanese artwork adding some extra oomph to the subtle interior. There’s also a large table in the courtyard at the back for when the sun shines, which it did, triumphantly, on our recent June visit, casting a golden glow over the tables and diners.  

The Flavours

A Japanese inspired menu it may be, but the ingredients are mostly local, very local. Prawns fished from Kingsdown Bay (1 mile to the South) and lemon sole bathed in white miso with fat clams. There’s broths, herbs and homemade pickles; it’s warming, invigorating, tantalising and expertly executed.

Citrus features – a visit in February included the weird and wonderful giant lemon “Cedro” with raw Hamachi;  in June – yuzu and thin slices of kumquat supply the contrasting acidity. 

Barbecuing is a thing, as is deep-frying.  Enoki mushroom tempura is sensational, but the creamy, rich crab croquettes feel like they have come from San Sebastian via Sapporo, so notch things up yet another level. Our June lunch turned into a pork feast. It wasn’t planned that way, but was piggishly satisfying with pork that held a juicy succulence that’s frustratingly, often missing.

The People

The front of house team shows true craft, balancing enthusiasm, knowledge with a light touch. There are no “hey guys” blustering here but a capacity to read the customers and the occasion. The two chefs with baseball caps & tattoos appear daunting when you first sit at the counter but engage with a welcoming gesture of a cup of smoked fish broth (made from smoked mackerel bones apparently, perhaps enhanced with rice wine & lemongrass?). They obviously love their music – old school hip-hop sounding good, Terry Callier’s ‘Ordinary Joe’ sounding better. I would imagine the locals would like to keep this place a secret, but a day-out destination for Londoners like me, it is determined to be. As I skip through the door with all the energy and enthusiasm that being at the seaside induces, I have a strong sense of who’s who and I am sure they do too.

The Details

Check out the cooking equipment – two induction hobs, a fryer and a little Japanese Konro Grill – that’s it. Their knife collection would be worth more.

Sit at the Chef’s counter if you want to see some knife action, or in the window for gull-gazing and sea-side vibes.

Make a point of going to the loo, even if you don’t need to. Not big enough for a girlie gathering, but a cool back drop for a Tik Tok drop, if that’s your thang.

The Scoops

• Great value set-lunch for £25 on Thursday and Friday.
• If there’s two of you, ordering the set-menu for 1 and some a la carte dishes will keep the cost down and reinforce the joy of sharing.
• The Special’s board is called Special for a reason, don’t miss it.
• The Blue Pelican | 83 Beach Street | Deal | Kent | 01304 783162.
• Open lunch Thurs-Sat, Noon-2.30pm, dinner Wed-Sat, 6-9.30pm.
• From about £50 a head à la carte, plus drinks and service