A while back, I read a piece in the Sunday Times on Porto where they described it as “this dramatically located mini metropolis, which takes your breath away in more senses than one…….a picturesque city of hills and wine…” This, along with a couple of recommendations from trusted friends, was enough to secure it a place on my ‘to-visit list’.

Flights from London to Porto take approx. 2.5 hours, so surely this makes it one of the best city breaks in Europe for autumn sun seekers, with an average temperature (albeit slightly unpredictable) of 22 degrees in mid October. Wherever I travel, I always ask myself if I’d return and I like to pretend during my stay that I am in fact a ‘resident’, just nonchalantly swanning around, behaving like a local, when in fact I am simply a starry-eyed tourist just like so many others who may also be inspired to write a blog on their visit. But with Porto, I could have easily taken up residency, for a while at least. It has an intimate, compact, lived-in charm and ease about it. It’s bustling and yet safe and down-to-earth, so perhaps for all those reasons, it’s no longer in the shadow of its more popular coastal city neighbour, Lisbon. If you’ve only got three days, add these suggestions to your agenda; if you have longer then, lucky you, because there is so much to see, do and experience. Enjoy!

TRAVEL

Get the early 7am flight out of Heathrow (as painful as that feels when you’re climbing out of bed in the middle of the night) and you’ll find yourself in this enchanting little city by lunchtime. 

Ditch any ideas of car rental, you can catch the train straight out of the airport and into the city (Trinidade Station) without any effort for under 3 euros.  Alternatively, taxis cost approx. 20 euros and take 20 minutes or so to Ribeiro, (Porto’s old town and certified UNESCO site which sits on the North side of the city) leaving you the rest of the day to find your bearings and get a sense of this magical place with all its beautiful, steep cobbled streets, staggering architectural structures and magnificent bridges. Everything is walkable – as long as the hills and countless steps don’t put you off!

STAY

…at The Yeatman – if luxury hotels are your thing – just outside the city, which affords you stunning views back to both Ribeiro and Villa Nova De Gaia, which sit majestically on the North and South sides of the Douro River,  impressively linked by the Eiffel inspired Luis I Bridge. Here, you can combine your city ramblings with late leisurely afternoons around the pool, sipping a White Port & Tonic or one of the many wines from their impressive cellars, whilst watching the keen rowers and fleets of pretty Rabelos taxiing fellow sightseers up and down the gentle tides of the Douro. 

But if you prefer a home from home kind of vibe, then Porto View by Patio 25 on the Gaia side of the city (bookable through Booking.com) is a fabulous two bed apartment with picture postcard views through huge balcony windows of the Luis 1 Bridge and across to the busy waterside restaurants and bars of Ribeiro. The ever-changing light of the city through these magnificent windows is intoxicating so beware of the push-pull of exploring and staying ‘home’. Sunsets are the best, so return to enjoy them with an aperitif before heading out again to the twinkling lights and enticing sounds of buskers jamming and glasses clinking along the Douro shore sides.

START

…with breakfast at My Coffee Porto as it just really feels like the perfect start to the day. It’s idyllically situated on the Escadas do Codecal, nestled underneath the Ponte Luis – halfway up, halfway down. Aim to get there when they open at 9.30am (check their website for up-to-date times). If you’re lucky enough to grab one of their few covetable little balcony tables then you’re in for a treat; otherwise grab a takeaway and sit on the old stone steps instead, the atmosphere is just as good. Every angle is Instagramable and Avocado Toast with cucumber and tomato, or their deliciously sweet Acai Smoothie Bowl, will almost certainly pull in some new foodie fan followers, because this is quite simply breakfast heaven! Perhaps it goes without saying that the coffee is good enough for the coffee connoisseurs and the orange juice ….like freshly squeezed sunshine.

STOP

…if you happen to find yourself on the R. da Sra. Das Verdades (which leads down to My Coffee Porto) and share a precious moment with one of Porto’s oldest residents, a beguiling old lady who spends her days sitting on her doorstep, music playing, smiling and chatting to passers by. If you’re lucky, she’ll invite you in for a quick glass of Port, or to help her with some jobs – I’m not entirely sure which!

SPEND

… a few minutes appreciating the views (and sunsets) from the top of the Ponte Luis I as the trains squeeze slowly past you (vertigo sufferers beware, this is the last place you’d want to lose your balance) and time wandering the streets to soak up the city’s culture and energy. Look up, down, and all around, there’s an abundance of the narrowest streets with pretty coloured 18^th century townhouses, cafés and shops, all waiting to be explored.

SHOP

…at the superbly curated concept shop, Panamar on Rua Mouzinho da Silveira. for something a bit special. You’ll discover an eclectic mix of handmade pieces, from sculptures and jewellery to clothes and homeware – all exquisitely individual and unique. Just don’t fall in love with anything until you’ve worked out how you’re going to ship it home! 

Then head further up to R. das Flores which is bursting with life, buskers, cafés and independent shops. It’s a perfect slice of Porto street life for shopping, eating, drinking and catching the vibes. And if you’ve still not had your fix, take yourself off to Armazem on the Rua de Miragaia, a funky converted wine warehouse turned bar, gallery and shops. Located in front of the Alfandega do Porto building, it sells everything from vintage clocks to handbags and art, but save money for a cocktail on the terrace or a game of table footie in the bar; and of course, more cool hipster vibes!

VISIT

…arguably one of the oldest and most beautiful bookshops in the world, Livaria Lello, but go early to avoid the queues – it’s a renowned tourist trap so expect a crowd!

The Sé do Porto Cathedral is a must-see for its imposing twin towers, incredible views from the ‘miradouro’ lookout and mesmerising internal detail and beauty. And nearby, if you’re passing, pop your head in to the Sao Bento train station to admire its famous blue and white azulejo tiles and majestic high ceilings. If at this stage you’re a little peckish, nip in to nearby O Rapido for some typical Portuguese fare, dished up for prices that please the locals.

Graham’s Port is probably one of the largest Port houses, but its location makes for a lovely visit. It’s an impressive site, perched high up on the hill of Villa Nova de Gaia, with beautiful views, grand tasting rooms, an impressive restaurant and sunny terrace. But there are many, including Caves Ferreira, founded in 1751 and ‘the only house of Port wine that has remained in Portuguese hands since its foundation.’

TAKE   

…the Six Bridges river boat tour from Ribeiro (arrive and queue early for a good seat with a view) and enjoy a leisurely hour cruising up and down the river, admiring the beautiful scenic hillsides and architecture, whilst gazing up at the awe-inspiring engineering of their magnificent six bridges, linking the shores of the dreamy Douro river.

DO

…take a whole day to explore the beautiful nearby beaches and fishing villages just south of the city where the Douro meets the Atlantic – Reserva Natural do Estuårio Do Douro. Rent an electric bike and enjoy the freedom of zipping along, stress-free from place to place, stopping wherever you fancy to absorb the landscape and embrace local culture. 

Stop off for lunch in Afurada, just 20 minutes outside the city, to experience freshly caught fish, served kerbside in true ‘street party’ stylie on barbeques from the many local restaurants. Café Moreira is a good choice and their crispy chargrilled sardines with a side of golden roasted potatoes really hit the spot and fuel the fire! You can feast your heart out here and spend very little before hopping back on your bike for an afternoon of cycling in the other direction – minimal effort required, remember, it’s electric! 

Then follow the Douro east – the cycle paths make it feel safe and enjoyable and the drivers show respect to cyclists too – taking in the Six Bridges from a different perspective, stopping along the way to stimulate the senses and breathe in the staggering, elevated views. 

EAT

…in as many places as you can in the time you have, but keep your choices varied. Experience the simplicity and authenticity of local back street cafés and indulge in Porto’s best fine dining restaurants, of which there’s an abundance. For ambience, elegance, a rich yet unpretentious dining experience, book Restaurante Casario. It’s elevated position overlooking the shores of Ribeiro make it perfect for people watching if you get a table on the balcony. But more than that, their tasting menu is simply divine; from ‘ceviche’ style sea bass to the rich, intense offal-ly flavours of venison fillet, followed by the sweetest most succulent pork belly – this is uncomplicated, perfectly cooked Portuguese food that will leave you contentedly satiated. Served with genuine passion and sincerity and paired with carefully considered Douro wines that sing a tune of their own, yet harmonise perfectly with each dish. 

In contrast, if it’s chic, on-trend pomp and ceremony you like, then you might want to try Blind, a chic, gastronomic Michelin style dining experience that will set you back 180 euros each for an 8-course tasting menu with paired wines. Served with formality and majesty, at times it felt like running a marathon, so book ahead and opt for an earlier sitting as it’s a lot to plough through. Every dish follows an inspired theme – with a hint of the Willy Wonka’s – so presents a new and individual experience each time. It’s memorable, but for reasons that sometimes distract from the food itself, as good as that is. Sensory overload for some, gastronomic heaven for many. You decide.

The SCOOPS

Scoop One: If you haven’t got the legs for all that hill climbing, look out for the many city lifts up (they’re not always that easy to spot) and then meander your way back down on foot.

Scoop Two: You can often pay less for the small Port tasting gift boxes in the various wine shops around the city, than in the actual Port houses themselves.

Scoop Three: Graham’s Port has the most fabulous terrace and restaurant, Vinum, situated high up the hill of the Gaia district, overlooking the Douro River and city.  If you can’t get a reservation in the restaurant, enjoy their more relaxed tapas menu which is absolutely superb; it features oysters, silky soy-marinated tuna carpaccio, light, crisp calamari and delicate golden croquettes oozing with creamy cep mushrooms and salted cod fillings – give them a little squeeze and delight at their delicate texture before taking that first, sigh-inducing bite.

Extra Time?

…then don’t miss exploring further by day-tripping out of the city to experience more of Portugal’s magnificent history and culture:

• Day Trip to Douro: one of the most beautiful and oldest wine regions in the world.
• Day Trip to Braga one of the oldest and most religious cities in Portugal.
• Day Trip to Guimarães: the birthplace of Portugal, one of the most beautiful and fascinating cities in the country.

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